Sunday, March 12, 2023

Củ Chi Tunnels - The Ben Duoc Site @ Ho Chi Minh City [Vietnam]

In every travel show that went to shoot at 
Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), there's always that one must-do activity; a visit to Củ Chi Tunnels! For those who are unaware, the tunnels are unrelated to nature; in fact, they were man-made for a specific purpose. To win the Vietnam War! 

Served as the military headquarters during the war, it was a huge area with a tunnel system spanning an eye-popping 121 kilometers long! What we would be going through today, as part of our half day Củ Chi Tunnels tour, would only be "the tunnel sightseeing area".

Rest of the areas, like the swimming pool, the liberation area, memorial temples etc, were not included. I was scratching my head about the swimming pool but guess it's a spinoff leisure space for locals who would prefer to spend their entire day at Củ Chi.

According to Wikipedia, there were two main sites for the tunnels and the one we would be talking about today, is the Ben Duoc site which contained "part of the original tunnel system".  

You can also find many wartime machines near the entrance of the tunnel sightseeing area; this C-130 aircraft was a giant to behold. Those airplanes at War Remnants Museum were, simply put, incomparable. 

Information about the airplane can also be found on the plaque in front of each machine. We didn't spend too much time here as the purpose was for people to use the loo next to the machines before going into the "attraction".

Grand entrance with a plant-lined canopy.

Marveling at the guns behind a glass cabinet; the ladies had no interest at all. I am not that interested as I was a non-combat personnel when I was in national service and hence, had never touched a gun before in my entire life.

Guns, the launchers and the artillery projectiles used during the war. According to our tour guide, 500,000 tons of bombs were dropped at the Củ Chi and it was estimated the Vietnamese would take 300 years to clear every single one of them.

Stepping into the main area. 

Rules for visitors; one of the key things to note is not to wander off yourself! Aside from the risk of getting lost, do keep in mind that some of the tunnels might not be sealed. With over 100 kilometers of them still in service, some which still continue to have bobby traps, I doubt urbanites like us would survive.

What would you think the above was?
A termite mound / hill? 

Kim, our energetic and informative tour guide, shared that the numerous, supposedly termite mounds served the purpose of ventilation for those living in the tunnels!

For the layman, it was just a normal forest with pathway.

Typical attire for those living in the tunnels; numbering more than 16,000 people, I was wondering why is there a need for scarf? Apparently, it doubled up as a tourniquet to prevent the flow of blood in event of emergencies. 

Nuggets of historical information was shared about the Củ Chi Tunnels; like why Cu Chi instead of other places? Three reasons; the place was filled with volcano soil which wasn't easily washed away by rain. It's also about 10-15 meters above sea level and located close to both Saigon River and Cambodia, where the Viet Cong can easily escape to. 

I was most fascinated by the tunnels; there were three levels at three meters, six meters and nine meters deep and only the first two levels were mainly usable by the Viet Cong as the last level had reduced level of oxygen. 

It was an entire community underneath with meeting rooms, sleeping quarters, armory. There's even a water well. Meals were also cooked underground and chambers were built to contain the smoke, and to release in the morning, together with the morning mist. 

Americans did attempt to infiltrate the tunnels but facing them were the numerous bobby traps! One wrong step and you would have dozens of sharp poles going through your body! It's cruel but wars are not known for being kind.

Going further into the forest.
Just follow the dirt path! 

Experiencing our first tunnel; to check out the water well. 
For safety, the well had a metal grate over it.

This hole was also for ventilation! 
We were actually able to peek out from the other end. 

To me, nothing out of the blue; wasn't this just a patch of leave-strewn floor, common in many forests? Camouflage is a main component for guerilla warfare and nothing is plain in sight.

There's a tiny opening! To be frank, I saw this so many times on travel shows yet it still didn't prepare me for how small it actually was in real life. I doubt I can fit my big head in! 

They had child soldiers, maybe?

The local guide demonstrated and I was still doubtful as this guy was quite skinny and I am relatively bulky. However, I spent money on this tour and I am unwilling to miss this opportunity! 

It's a tunnel so one way in, and out the other way! Surprisingly, I managed to go through quite easily. The tunnel was narrow and short; those with claustrophobia would hate to be in those tunnels.

Fun it sure was! Ladies should refrain from wearing skirts if they intend to visit Củ Chi Tunnels, especially if they have an adventurous streak. 

Such greenness would have deterred you from stepping onto it. Furthermore, it was fenced up to prevent careless people from going to the patch; necessary precautions for people like me who weren't blessed with observant sight.

A wrong step and it's a bye bye. I just checked and the nearest hospital is a 13-minute drive away, although given the number of bamboo spikes in the bobby trap; there's a higher chance you would die of excessive blood loss before you reach the hospital. 

So how did the Viet Cong know where the bobby traps were? As mentioned earlier, there were 16,000 people living in the tunnels and it's not as if you can email them back in those days. So, the easiest way would be to have some kind of markers near the traps; like sticking a piece of leaf. 

Military health bunker! Despite the existence of such, pretty large structures, you can't really see them when the planes flew past. You would need a reconnaissance team and I am assuming the bobby traps were set up in the perimeters to deter and also alert before they could further advance to the main camp.

As you have seen so far, mannequins were put up to depict life during the Vietnam War. p.s. the youngest in our tour would likely be in the medical line when she grows up. 
 
Going through another stretch of tunnel although this time, we didn't have to go through that small opening. If I remember correctly, I went thorough 3-4 different tunnels; longest of which took about five minutes to walk across. 

For the benefit of visitors, the bunkers were lighted up for ease of viewing the conditions during the war although for some parts of the tunnel, the local guide would need to switch on his torchlight to guide us along. 

I am short yet even I had to crouch when I navigated along some parts of the tunnel. Hence, the Americans, most of whom are taller and bigger in size, would likely have a more difficult time to cross the tunnels. 

Knowing the challenges, Americans decided to to just straight out carpet bomb the area or spray chemical (most controversial of which is Agent Orange) to kill the vegetation so that the Viet Cong can be exposed. 

Entrance to the third level. To my disappointment, we were not allowed to explore further although I am sure this opening was smaller than the one I went through earlier.

Now to take some rest! 

Food was provided for everyone! Even though the tunnel was pretty cooling, I was sweating buckets and could definitely appreciate the subsistence, which turned out to be steamed tapioca! 

And we ate it with a blended mixture containing sugar, salt and peanuts! A bit like eating muah chee without the chewy, sticky texture.

Tapioca plant; grown in abundance in the area, I wondered why sweet potatoes were not planted instead. Aside from palatability, sweet potato leaves can also be stir fried into a delicious dish. 

Ice cream; always welcome whenever I am sweating.

Time to wash up via this contraption where water flowed out of holes from the bamboo, like a curtain of water, which allowed more people to wash their hands.   
Dining bunker, which came with a stove too! And also a photobomber who wondered what's so big deal about the huge dining area.

Without Kim, we needed to come out with our own narrative on what happened between the two mannequins. Kon felt that the lady was being bullied and he had to step in to "assist" the lady. 

A sewing bunker?!

As there were no vehicle, I wondered what these tyres would be used for. During the Vietnam War, the Viet Cong would salvage the rubber tyres from the vehicles damaged or abandoned by the enemies. 

They used them to make shoes for the Viet Cong! Now, shoes would result in markings on the forest floor, which might make it easier for the enemies to find them.

To counter, they had to confuse. So, sometimes, they would wear the shoes facing the other way, and would even purposely walk towards the bobby traps they had set up. 

Military workshop for them to make bombs and ammunition! 

This section was named the home made weapons gallery and you can see some of the things that came out from the military workshop. Some were improvised to maximize the pain to be felt by the victim. 

I am more curious about the different types of bobby traps and there was a space specially dedicated to them, in one long line where Kim described their functions, and desired effects.

In addition to bamboo spikes on the floor, sharp nails were also placed, design to pierce through and shred the skin, and to prevent the victim from easily getting out. Just for information as well that the bamboo had gone through prior burning to harden them and the spikes were also smeared with poison!

Another torturing trap; once you accidentally step in, the nail at the bottom would pierce through your foot, the ones on the side will cut through your skin and if you attempt to lift your foot, the nails on the side would further eat into your bones!! That would have been excruciating!

Last stop before we ended this interesting tour. You may get yourself the scarf even though there were many other types of souvenirs available, including lacquered products and Vietnam's iconic hat; the non la. 

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Part of the Củ Chi Tunnels Half Day Tour
Purchased from Klook.com 


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