One major reason why I have yet to travel past Asia is the lack of sleep that I would have to endure given that I can't fall into deep sleep without a proper bed. And not sleeping sufficiently spoils my mood.
Hence, I wasn't that all keen with the sleeper train from Hanoi to Sapa although in comparison to the sleep bus, the train option seemed more palatable, and safer. Therefore, here we were, at Hanoi Railway Station, at close to 9.00pm on December 11 2025.
Tickets were purchased from Baolau, for the Chapa Express Train, and the instructions on the confirmation slip indicated "kindly convene on the 2nd floor of the main hall at Gate 2A, Ha Noi Station (located at 120 Le Duan Street) 45
minutes prior to the scheduled time. Our representatives will be present to extend a welcome and assist you in boarding the Chapa Express
Train."
On the second floor, and it's not hard to find what we were looking for. Just a note that the trains to Sapa from Hanoi would always depart at night. As there is no train leading to Sapa, you would arrive at Lao Cai city and have to make private arrangement for the next leg of journey up Sapa.
Sign for Chapa Express. Unfortunately, we were informed that one of the cabin wasn't operational and four of us (out of six) would be moved to another train, Vic Sapa Train. It's unexpected but complaining wouldn't do any difference as we didn't have much choices and I guess being in a foreign country teaches us to have a mindset change, and don't take everything for granted.
Departing at 10pm, do note the boarding was 50 minutes before! So do arrive earlier so that you can still have time to settle into your sleeping cabin. In the event you are too early, you can go opposite the train station where there are eateries and convenience stores.
Waiting at the sparse waiting room; surprisingly not many people. Still feeling sore over the change of train as the train tickets for Chapa Express were more expensive and Singaporeans hate to feel shortchanged! Anyway, we shall see how the replaced train would turn out to be.
Punctually at 9.10pm, we were asked to board.
That's so precise as punctuality is not a virtue in Southeast Asia.
Train for Chapa Express, where my sister and brother in law shall continue to be at as their two-person cabin didn't have any issue, unlike the four-person cabin for Alex, my younger sister, my dad and I.
Now, I assumed it would be a different train but it turned out to be one long train with carriages managed by various companies! Therefore, Vic Sapa Train was just another carriage further down the same train! Mountain tortoise me.
Please keep in mind that the steps up the train can be a challenge for the elderly! Large luggage might also be a problem although for my family, we had left our large pieces of luggage with the Hanoi hotel, and only brought out our cabin luggage for the Sapa leg.
Upon entering, it would be the wash-up area with sinks and paper towel dispensers. This area would be crowded about an hour before arrival at Lao Cai train station, where passengers would wash their face (with cold water) and brush their teeth.
Water dispenser was also provided. There's a toilet at the end of the carriage; generally clean, but I forgot to take a photograph for reference!
Narrow passage where one side was for the windows and the other side would be for the sleeping cabins! Although I read that sound proofing was an issue, it wasn't a problem for us. Maybe we were lucky to have "considerate neighbours".
Interior of a typical 4-bed cabin! Wait, only two beds?! See the two set of "paintings" with cultural symbols? That's the upper bunk for two extra beds.
Wait, one set of amenities for four of us?! We feedback and got the other three sets. So, one set comprised of mineral water, banana, cookies, rubber ear plugs, wet tissue and toothbrush with toothpaste. Luggage can be stored underneath the lower bunk!
Making ourselves comfortable! Blanket was nice, like a comforter and although the temperature outside was about 16 degrees celcius, the condition within the cabin was just right. So much so that Alex stripped down to his boxer.
Train departed at 10pm, as promised! At this point, strangers would drop by your cabin and ask if you require local transport from Lao Cai City to Sapa Town, coffee, tea, snacks etc. If you don't wish to be disturbed, just lock up your cabin door.
Enjoying the sight, which generally wasn't much since it was already night. However, the train would ride past the famous train street, where many visitors along the train track would whip out their phones to take videos, making us feel that we were the caged animals in the zoo!
A short video for your viewing. Shortly after, we switched off the lights and slowly drifted off to sleep. There were power sockets where we can continue to charge our phones using international adapters.
I woke up a few times to pee and while the screeching sounds and vibrations from the train track and wheels can be quite loud, it was manageable, especially after using the ear plugs. Above google map was taken at 4.30am. Before long, the morning call at 5.30am (30 minutes before arrival at Lao Cai railway station) woke all of us up, resulting in some bustle as passengers got up to wash up.
Arrival at Lao Cai Railway Station.
Safe and sound, in one piece, but heavy-eyed, for me.
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Ticket Price
4-person Cabin - S$58.30 a person
Chapa Express (via Baolau)
p.s. i think cheaper to book direct (websites below)
Website for Chapa Express
Website for Vic Sapa Train
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